What Every Gardener Should Know
Tomatoes 101
Although once believed to be poisonous, the tomato is now the most widely grown vegetable (fruit) in the nation. It can be grown in containers, in very small gardens with limited space as well as the large scale garden, and even in large plastic bags of soil. A native of South America, it was transported to Europe by the Spanish explorers, eventually found its way to America and reportedly finally was included in an American seed catalog in 1817. Plant scientists have developed hundreds of varieties since then as they have worked to improve the vegetable.
The Two Categories of Tomatoes
The determinate tomato is a bush type which produces all its crop at one time. This is the kind of tomato grown by commercial growers because it does not require staking, the fruit ripens at one time for harvest, and then the plant is finished, leaving room for another crop.
The indeterminate tomato is a vining type and is what most of us grow in our gardens. This plant continues to ripen fruit, grow and set more fruit all season long. Becoming large and heavy as the fruit increases in size and quantity, the use of sturdy stakes or cages is advisable..
How to Grow
Buy disease resistant plants. There are a number of diseases that affect tomatoes, but plant scientists have developed resistant cultivars. The plant label will indicate its resistance, such as (V) for Verticillium wilt, (F) for Fusarium wilt, (N) for nematodes, and (T) for tobacco mosaic.
Choose a good location. This may be the hardest task. Tomatoes need soil with a pH of 6.0-7.0 and require full sun. Do not plant tomatoes within 50 feet of a walnut tree since tomatoes are very sensitive to a substance (juglone) which is produced by the roots of the tree. Tomatoes and corn don't make good companions because the tomato fruitworm is identical with the corn earworm, and we are told that tomatoes make potatoes more susceptible to potato blight. It is also a good idea to separate tomatoes and peppers (both of the nightshade family) with a row of something that is not a nightshade vegetable. Tomatoes do quite well with chives, onions, carrots, garlic, and marigolds. Till the soil.
The plant will need support as it grows. If you decide to use stakes it is wise to drive them into the ground at the appropriate points before you set the plant.
Dig the hole, and set the plant in so that the top four inches remain above the ground. The goal is to develop a good root system, which will ultimately produce more tomatoes. By planting deeply, additional roots will develop along the buried portion of the stem. Be sure to remove the leaves that will be covered by soil. Then backfill with the soil.
Fertilize. A starter solution of 1 to 2 tablespoons of 6-8-6, 4-8-8, 6-6-6 or similar analysis fertilizer per 1 gallon of water will get plants off to a fast start. Pour 1 pint around the base of each plant. Some gardeners believe that planting an eggshell in each hole will provide an extra calcium boost, thus helping to prevent blossom end rot on the fruit. It often helps to shade the plant for two or three days after transplanting.
Suckers (side shoots that develop) should be pinched off as the plant grows. You should be able to do this with your thumb and forefinger. It has been said that if this procedure requires pruning shears you waited too long! If staked, the plant should be tied regularly.
Mulch. Adding a layer of mulch around the plant will help weed control as well as prevent other problems in the future. My mulch of choice is layers of newspaper covered with grass clippings--no black plastic!
Join us next time for the rest of the story
about tomatoes, their problems and solutions.